Springtime in Temecula

A few weeks ago we traveled to Temecula for the wedding of our good friends Lisa and Clint. My husband has known Lisa and her family (she has five siblings) since high school - and through a combination of fate and lucky circumstances, she met Clint on Halloween a few years ago. They are perfect for each other in many, many ways, not the least of which being they are absolutely head over heels for each other. Lisa, always beautiful, was positively radiant in her strapless satin duchesse gown and leopard print pumps.

The wedding and reception were held at the Stonehouse at the Temecula Creek Inn - a gorgeous setting on the golf course surrounded by greenery and carpeted with grass.

The house itself is a historic building dating to 1825, originally built as a mess hall for quarrymen. The interior of the building features exposed stone walls and open beam construction, and features a large stone fireplace. It proved the perfect place for setting up the food and cake.

Near the house is another open firepit surrounded by benches, handy for keeping warm on chilly nights. The bar and tables were set up on the grass nearby.

Given that we are currently working on wedding cakes in my cake decorating class - I was particularly interested in seeing the cake Lisa chose. I don't care how many cliches there are about dry tasteless wedding cake - I still look forward to it, and over the past few years I've had several good ones. Twiggs did one for a friend's wedding that stands out, and another got hers from Just Fabulous - but I have to say that I think this one may have topped them all. It was a lovely clean hexagonal shape, simply decorated with buttercream icing and piping, and real roses and ribbon (vastly preferable in my opinion to the gum paste and fondant plaster that are often used on wedding cakes.) The flavors were delicious - orange with mango buttercream and Chambord drizzle, chocolate with hazelnut praline ganache, and almond poppy with cream cheese and raspberry. I was particularly impressed with the smoothness of the buttercream. It's a signature recipe of the bakery called "Malinda's Buttercream" named after the woman who owns the bakery (though it's called Jodee's Bakery) and looks as smooth as glass.

I was so impressed, that I actually stopped by there on my way back from Riverside last week to sample some of their other goods - a few cupcakes and cookies. These items weren't quite as good, but it is very clear that they are more or less and afterthought. This bakery focuses on special occasion and wedding cakes and does a very good job with them. The sample cakes in the store were lovely and simple, especially a large square one decorated with tiny grapes. Lisa said she found them because they were recommended by the hotel. If you're ever in the market for a wedding cake in Temecula - or even in North County, I would recommend giving them a call.

Before the wedding, Tommy, James and I took a little trip over to the Thornton Winery for some lunch and a little wine tasting. Pictured below are the Caesar Salad and Ahi Stack we ordered to share. The Ahi stack was very good - nice sesame crusted seared ahi with avocado, a ginger-soy dressing and wonton chips. The Caesar was also quite a bit better than the average restaurant offering (I hardly ever order these anymore because I am very picky about them - but James will order them occasionally.) For the main course, Tommy and I split a kobe beef burger, while James went with the eggs benedict. Technically it was brunch, being a Sunday, so they plied us with free champagne as well.

The kobe burger with white cheddar and bacon was truly delicious - tender, well seasoned and perfectly cooked medium rare. The eggs benedict looked perfectly fine - James was pleased. All in all it reminded me of the food you'd expect to find at a nice country club. It was good for what it was, but it might be disappointing to anyone expecting the kind of culinary genius you find in the Napa valley or other world class wine regions.

If you're thinking about a trip, this page seems to have a good rundown on the local wineries. If and when we go back there for wine tasting, I want to try Hart and Callaway. I'm also thinking about checking out Tori Spelling's new B&B - Chateau la Rue - up in Fallbrook. It seems like an unlikely place for such a venture, but it looks interesting. I'm curious about the room rates - I have sent them an email inquiry so we'll see what we find out!

Delfina Delights (San Francisco)

Ever since my visit to Delfina nearly two weeks ago, I've been obsessed with one of the dishes on their menu. It was a dish of bucatini, twirled with an emulsion of fava beans, garlic, parmesan and olive oil. It was very simple, and not even something I swooned over at the time - but the combination of the sweet, nutty and sharp flavors really stuck in my mind.

When I got back, I bought some fresh fava beans at Peoples, and used some bucatini I had on hand with the ingredients I imagined must be in there, but it just wasn't the same. Something about that restaurant magic - that and a lot of olive oil, most likely.

The rest of our meal at Delfina was similarly deceptive in its simplicity. The cuisine is sort of Tuscan-style Italian with a California bend. The menu changes daily (though there are a few constants) and offers several courses made with seasonal produce, local meats, house made pastas, gelato and sausages. To view the current menu, click here.

Our first course, the gem lettuce salad, with flavors similar to a caesar, was delicious - though it was just a small pile of lettuce with a sharp garlicky dressing. I wasn't quite as impressed with the green garlic sformata, which to me seemed a bit undercooked, though Sam assured me it is generally very soft. The trumpet mushrooms served alongside were delicious though, and the flavor had me promising to grow some green garlic in my garden when I finally get it started.

Sam and I shared almost everything we ordered except our entrees, which they very thoughtfully divided for us on two separate plates (except the sformata, that would have been a bit messy!) For our main courses, Sam chose the Tuscan ribs - a rack of ribs resting on a serving of their bread salad. The ribs were meltingly tender and flavorful, and redolent of herbs and garlic. The bread salad (which we also ordered a side dish of - not realizing Sam's entree would include it) was a vinegary tangle of crisp bread cubes, arugula and pine nuts. I wonder how it compares to Zuni's version - which I haven't had a chance to try yet.

I ordered a dish of seared ahi, served over farro. The dish was very good and well excecuted but I think I chose somewhat poorly. I was trying to be good, but this just didn't showcase the kind of cooking I went there to eat.

The vibe in the dining room is bustling and somewhat noisy, but not overwhelming. The room itself is very simple, with metal topped tables, a mirrored wall and warm colors - not aggressively trendy, but certainly hip and attractive. It's really the kind of place anyone at any age can go and feel comfortable, which no doubt contributes to its popularity.

Next door, they have a more casual - and affordable - pizzeria. While it would be great to have a restaurant like Delfina in San Diego - this is the kind of place I really wish we had. Someplace you can go any night of the week for a great, affordable meal made with top-quality artisanal ingredients. I definitely plan to try it on my next trip up there.

Overall, I can't quite put my finger on it - but Delfina has that je ne sais quoi that just makes a restaurant work. The menu changes frequently, so it's the kind of place you can go frequently without getting bored. The service is excellent and both diners and staff seem happy to be there - which infuses the room with a warm, happy buzz. If I lived in the City, I'd go as often as possible.

Thanks to Sam, for coming out and enjoying this with me - I can't wait to do it again. Hopefully I can meet some other SF food bloggers on my next trip!

Delfina
3821 18th St.
S of Market near Guerrero - on the same block as Tartine
415.552.4255
http://www.delfinasf.com/
http://www.pizzeriadelfina.com/
Reservations are absolutely mandatory for the restaurant - not the pizzeria.

In case you missed it...

I guarantee that this post from the incomparable David Lebovitz is the funniest thing you will read all day, maybe even all week. Anyone who has been to Ikea can relate. (In fact, I think I threw away one of their PEECEÖVSHEET frying pans just last week!)

Breakfast at Boulettes...

top row: Boulette's spice rack, rose petal jam and butter, eggs with lentils at Boulette's, Pizetta 211
second row: caramel shrimp at Slanted Door, the bar at Slanted Door, goodies from Tartine, Delfina
third row: A Tartine croissant, the counter at Boulette's, dog at Boulette's, antipasto from Whole Foods
bottom row: Pizzeria Delfina, Boulette's kitchen, outside at Boulette's, Pot de Creme at Slanted Door.

On this trip to San Francisco, I think I might have actually spent a bit too much time at the Ferry Building, with three trips in four days. It was mostly a function of convenience, and there are certainly worse places to be - but it was starting to feel a bit like deja vu by my last visit on the way out of town.

My first trip wasn't all that successful because the shops were closing and Boulette's was setting up for a private party (which looked fantastic, by the way.) I wound up at the bar at the Slanted Door for dinner. It wasn't bad - but wasn't anything special either. I enjoyed the food I had on my last visit from the takeout stand, Out the Door, just as much. I noticed that Out the Door now sells kits the ingredient kits for many of the restaurant's dishes for cooking at home. The prices are only a couple of dollars less than in the restaurant though, $11-$13, so I'm not sure about the value. I liked their roast pork bahn mi, and the salads and spring rolls look very good. They also have Blue Bottle coffee.

The next day, I had to head back down that way to pick up the keys from Tommy, who works across the street - so I went back and bought the individual bags of Recchiuti chocolates that I had wanted for gifts, and some cookies from Boulettes -which were devoured immediately at Tommy's office. While at Boulette's, I noticed that they serve breakfast and lunch - The prices are not inexpensive, around $13-15 for entrees, but the selections on the sample menu they showed me looked interesting. I knew that I would be having breakfast with Moira the following morning before heading out, so I made a mental note that it looked like a good option.

the ferry plaza
Having already made two trips to the Ferry Building in as many days, and given that Canteen was on my list to try - I decided to suggest it for our breakfast on Friday. It turns out that they are now closed for breakfast during the week - which unfortunately Tommy and I didn't find out until we showed up that morning. We did nearly get to witness a domestic violence incident right there on the street, which was a little harrowing. Moira wasn't there yet, so rather than wait around, we went to pick her up down the street. Since I was taking Tommy to work, and then heading down to SOMA to drop Moira off before heading to the airport, the Ferry Building was once again a convenient and logical choice. Boulette's for breakfast it was.

tables outside
We could not have made a better choice. With tables set out on the Ferry Plaza in the near-blinding sunlight, coffee in french press pots, baskets of bread, rose jam and butter - it was like something straight out of a magazine, or even a movie. There was even an adorable friendly dog weaving in and out of the tables and peeking in the door.

le menu
The menu items on the day we visited included a hot multi-grain cereal made with "guisto's organic rye, wheat barley and oats, with assorted condiments," their housemade yogurt with jam and honey, poached eggs with salt cod, italian cheese, and "basted eggs with braised lentils, herbs and brown butter" - which is what I ordered. (See the collage above.)

poached eggs with brandade
I wouldn't have thought to serve lentils for breakfast, but the savory flavors were a good combination. Moira ordered the poached egg dish with salt cod, pictured above, which she enjoyed. I tried it - but I'm just not a fan of fish in the mornings, for whatever reason. She also ordered the "eastern european hot chocolate" - which was accurately described as deep chocolate blended with "a very heavy cream." Somehow it wasn't as overwhelming as it sounded - in fact, it was addictive. I ordered a cup for myself after tasting hers. It's definitely the kind of thing that should be enjoyed on vacation.

eastern european hot chocolate
One of the best surprises was the basket of Acme bread with rose petal jam and butter. Rose-flavored sweets rarely appeal to me (with the exception of the Date Madeleine Dessert with Rose Gelato at Parallel 33) but this was lovely - lightly sweet and mild - and it certainly doesn't hurt that it is such a beautiful color. Sometimes the things that make us the happiest are things we would never choose for ourselves. I love it when that happens.

the spice counter - the sign says "not for concept only"
As far as I know, Boulette's is a relatively unique place, I don't know of anything like it in San Diego, or anywhere else for that matter. It's a kitchen with a store attached, a part time cafe, and takeaway stand. They do dinner parties and breakfast and lunch on site, and have pastries, charcuterie, spices and seasonings, entrees and side dishes available for purchase. If you buy cookies or pastries, they put them in a wooden basket and wrap it in tissue paper for you. For more information, check out their website, at www.bouletteslarder.com - especially this page if you really want your mouth to water. It will also give you a good idea of the type of cooking they do.

I'll be back soon with more on Delfina and Temecula!

Boulette's Larder
Ferry Building Marketplace
415.399.1155
hours and information

San Diego Foodie News

So Wednesday was a big food day in the San Diego press! The San Diego Citybeat put out its food issue today. I, Kirk and Cathy and Gil were asked to write little blurbs about three of our favorite new restaurants, which are published about halfway down this page. There are some great tips in the features on out of the way places, as well as articles about Bread and Cie, Afternoon Tea, and how not to piss off your server. I am liking this paper more and more, especially since the Reader is chock full of plastic surgery ads now. Pick up a paper copy if you get a chance.

In the UT, the Food Section today features a front page article about the Grossmont Culinary program, where I take classes.

Just a couple of weeks ago, Chef Foran was ill and unable to teach, so we went over and had dinner at the Fine Dining class, mentioned in the article. I'd love to take that class at some point, but having a day job sort ot interferes since it's in the afternoons. The Advanced Baking and Pastry class makes all of the bread and desserts. I loved that they served mignardise after the menu. You don't even get that in the fanciest restaurants in town here!

It was a little dark for photos, but this is a creme brulee with a cone of mango sorbet stuck in it. I wasn't sure about the combination of the two together, but it was very good. At the Slanted Door in San Francisco we had a similar pairing of a chocolate pot de creme with a a coffee granita, so maybe it's a trend. The other options were a chocolate dome with a sugar decoration (pictured below) and a strawberry rhubarb bread pudding with creme fraiche ice cream - which I ordered. The ice creams and sorbets were especially good.

The entrees included a vegetarian option of breaded eggplant and potatoes and the panko breaded pork mentioned in the article.

I also noticed that Naomi Wise's review of Jack's Fine Dining came out in the San Diego Reader today, and she gave it a glowing report - the best I've ever seen from her. I had a very good meal there months ago, and I do think it's one of the best restaurants here in San Diego right now - it's nice to see it get its due. Jack Fisher, formerly at Region, 910 and Addison, is now the pastry chef there.

In other San Diego restaurant news, I'm excited about the opening of "Currant" - the new restaurant soon to open in the renovated Sofia Hotel downtown (formerly the Pickwick). The chef, Jonathan Pfleuger, has worked at the Russian Tea Room in New York, and at Montage in Laguna Beach. It's expected to open any day now. I'll have to sneak down there or call soon to find out more about their soft opening.

Chris Walsh of Cafe W and Confidential fame is also opening a new place in Hillcrest called Bite that will serve Northern Italian and French Bistro foods - undoubtedly in his favorite format - small plates. I think that should open within the next couple of months. I also hear we are getting a new Nobu in the Hard Rock Hotel that will open in the Gaslamp in the Fall.

If you're looking for more food news and reviews, check out San Diego.Eats.It- a new opinion sharing venue for serious San Diego food lovers. I think it will be a good addition to our local information exchange. Chowhound can be a bit well, shall we say, difficult at times - and Yelp is just downright unreliable.

That's it for now. I can't believe this week is going by so fast, but I'll be back soon with more on San Francisco and Temecula.

Happy Eating!

English Food is Naught a Joke!

"I'll bet what motivated the British to colonize so much of the world is that they were just looking for a decent meal." - Martha Harrison.

"Today in Iraq, American and British troops handed out food to hundreds of Iraqis. But to no surprise the Iraqis handed the British food back." - Conan O'Brien

It must have been jokes like these that prompted Sam to bring on the challenge, for us to help her prove that Engish food is not, in fact, a joke.

I can think of plenty of examples of delicious English goodies - many having to do with Maltesers and Afternoon Tea, but for my contribution to Fish and Quips, I prepared a variation of my favorite English meal - the traditional Sunday lunch of Roast Beef and Yorkshire Pudding. I noticed that Sam also did this same dish, but mine is quite different - more of a lazy non-English person's version, if you will.

For my "roast" - there being only two of us - I chose a little chunk of grass-fed sirloin. Following a suggestion I read somewhere, I cut some slits in it and inserted some halved garlic cloves - then rubbed it with salt and pepper, and roasted it on a rack at about 325 until it was at the medium rare mark - about 135 degrees. As the garlic cooked, the juices bubbled out and basted the meat for a really nice effect.

For the yorkshire puds, I took a recipe from Nigella and modified it a bit. I didn't have any beef drippings, so I used melted butter. I also added a bit of very finely shredded parmesan and a pinch of dry mustard and cayenne - to give the puddings a little bit of a gougere-y flavor. They were really wonderful, especially fresh out of the oven smeared with Plugra butter.

For the accompaniment, I pan-roasted some brussel sprouts (these came in a ready to cook bag at Trader Joes - I find them to be the smallest and best looking ones I can reliably find, but I've also seen really good ones at Whole Foods.) Just toss the little heads in a bowl with some olive oil, balsamic vinegar, red pepper flakes, salt and pepper, dump them into a pan and roast at about 350 for 30 minutes or so, tossing occasionally.

I loved the puddings and plan to make them again - I even purchased a mini popover pan for the purpose. I also want to try them for breakfast. Without the cheese and seasonings I imagine they would be a bit like mini dutch babies. The most important thing about this recipe is that these must be baked immediately before serving. They have about as much shelf life as a souffle. Every second beyond cool-enough-to-eat counts against you.


If you are interested in entering the challenge and think you can prove that English food is not, in fact, a joke - click here for the rules and information. Please also check back after April 23rd for the roundup!

Yorkshire Puddings
adapted from Nigella and other sources I can't quite recall

This should yield 7-8 yorkshire puddings. Nigella's recipe, linked above was for one big one but made five individual ones - and I have simply scaled it up here by 1.5.

2 cups of milk (I used nonfat with a couple of tablespoons of half and half mixed in to give it more body)
6 eggs
Scant 3/4 teaspoon of salt
1/4 teaspoon of cayenne pepper plus a pinch more
1/2 teaspoon of ground mustard plus plus a pinch more
2-4 Tablespoons very finely grated fresh parmesan or other very sharp cheese, loosely packed
5 or 6 grinds of freshly milled black pepper
2 cups plus 2 Tablespoons of all-purpose flour, sifted
2 Tablespoons of butter, cut into five pieces (you want pieces just a little smaller than half inch cubes)

Preheat the oven to 450

Beat the milk, eggs and seasonings together with a whisk (I used the hand blender whisk) and set aside

Put the pieces of butter into each of the muffin cups and preheat the pan in the oven for about 3-4 minutes, until the butter is melted. Watch it carefully so it doesn't brown too much or burn.

While the pan is in the oven, whisk the flour and shredded cheese into the egg mixture. It is important that the cheese is fresh and very finely grated, otherwise it might keep the batter from rising.

Bake at 450 until the puds are puffed and firm to the touch, about 15 minutes. They will continue to cook a bit after they are taken out. Cool in the pan on a rack for a few minutes, then serve straightaway, while warm and crisp.

A San Francisco Treat - Poco Dolce

the elegant box
While wandering through Whole Foods in Pacific Heights the other day, I was taken with a large display of local artisan chocolates near the cheese counter. Among the choices were these elegant tailored boxes of chocolate "tiles." Now, I've never had a chocolate tile before, but I thought they looked intriguing - so I popped them in my basket, along with a few bars of "Charles" chocolate. For gifts, you know.

the stash I brought back
I guess I should have bought more if I planned to give them to anyone, because I have already eaten half of them. At first I thought they were a little too big, but you can eat them in small bites - they have a wonderful snap, and the bitter chocolate is almost savory - but not too sharp. It's much more palatable than the usual 70% and over bitter chocolate, Valrhona for example.

the open box, note that it is half empty
The salt sprinkled on the top is just the right amount, and the flavorings are subtle. I particularly like the burnt caramel and the ginger. The spicy one is very hot - just so you know. am going to have to go online and order more, so I can share them with others here in San Diego.
a cross section of the almond square

Other elegant chocolatiers, based in San Francisco and elsewhere:
Chuao - San Diego
Michael Recchiuti - San Francisco
Valerie Confections - Los Angeles
Burdick - Walpole, New Hampshire
Vosges - Chicago

Dinner at Delfina, Breakfast at Boulette's

So I am back, and I am happy to report that the eating definitely improved after my last post. Many of the above photos were taken at Delfina and Boulettes, where I enjoyed my last two meals. I will be back with more about those soon, and will add have added the photos that go with the rest of the posts (though I could get online, I couldn't download photos into my laptop.)

Tomorrow we're headed up to Temecula for a wedding. If I can I will write more before we go, if not - I'll post it all next week.

Happy weekend!!

Ramblings on San Francisco

In case you are wondering what that last post was about, I've been in San Francisco for the past three days for a trial practice training class. It was an intense, action packed three days - culminating in a three hour trial for each team this morning. It was fun and I learned quite a bit, but I have a ways to go yet. We didn't get a lot of individual attention in this class, because there were so many of us there, but it was definitely valuable. I do think I can eventually learn to do this sort of work without becoming petrified with fear. I might actually even enjoy it!

The Slanted Door
Eating has taken a back seat, but I haven't exactly been starving. As I mentioned below, we had an ok meal at the Slanted Door on Tuesday night. I am glad I got a chance to try it, but I probably won't go back given all the other options here. I've had better food in San Diego at Red Pearl Kitchen, Dao Son and that Pho house I can never remember the name of in Mission Valley (I wasn't crazy about Pho T Cali). Red Pearl Kitchen's almost identical version of the prawn dish we ordered was better, and the ribs at Slanted Door were rubbery and swimming in oil. They made me wish I'd gone to Oola. I didn't have the spring rolls but it was killing me that they looked identical to the versions you can get all over town in San Diego but cost four times as much. If you are looking for some good ones in San Diego, Dao Son's are to die for.

Boulette's Larder - the cookies are in those little red cases on the counter
I went back to the Ferry Building after the classes ended today to pick up a few gift bags of individual chocolates, and a few cookies at Boulette's Larder. I need to find out what kind of fleur de sel they use on those chocolate cookies - it really sets off the flavor perfectly.

the antipasto platter at Whole Foods
Dinner last night was kind of comical. I decided I didn't have the energy for Ame, and I had to actually do some work to get ready for today - so we canceled that plan. Instead I stopped by Whole Foods up here in Pac Heights and picked up a pre-made antipasto platter, a loaf of Acme Italian Bread, a Artisan Flatbread pizza, and a bottle of chilled Viognier. The plan was that we would eat that at home.

Pizzetta 211
I then went home and decided to look at the website for the Pizzetta 211 restaurant, having met a girl who works there the day before. I was so taken with the reviews I read, that I decided we should go there instead of eating what I bought. I'd read that the place was tiny, but I really had no idea how tiny. It's a shoebox. It was too cold to eat outside, so we put our names on the list and sat down with a glass of wine. We looked at the menu, and chatted - I took a couple of pictures. Really, we could have eaten in the time we sat there. Eventually we got impatient though, and I started to feel guilty about not eating the food I had bought. We were also a little frustrated with our interactions with the staff. They seemed simultanously confused and arrogant, never a good combination for a restaurant employee. The girl I had met the day before was not there, so she certainly wasn't responsible. We waited about 45 minutes, and decided to go home and eat. We had a really nice meal - and I was able to get some work done.

cookies and a brownie from Tartine
Tonight I am headed down to the Mission to Delfina, in fact I need to get moving so I will be ready to go when Sam gets here! I am tempted to go back to Tartine, just next door, for some more of those brownies, but I have a feeling that's a bad idea for my waistline. They were definitely the best thing I tried though, and I will make them from the cookbook as soon as I can get my hands on it!

Food Blogging - Trial Lawyer Style

Ms. Robertson, I'd like to take you back to last night about 6 PM. You haven't heard from the two friends you plan to meet, and it is looking like your plans for an early dinner at Zuni Cafe have fallen through. As a result, you decided to go to the Ferry Building to buy some gifts - did you not?

When you arrived at the Ferry Building however, you were disappointed, weren't you - because the shops were in the process of closing?

Despite that fact, you were still able to buy some nifty pre-packaged items at Michael Recchiuti, including two boxes of fleur de sel caramels, a bag of burnt caramel almonds, and a box of hot chocolate pistoles?

You also purchased a loaf of Acme bread - cranberry walnut to be exact?

It was at that time that you realized there was nothing else to do at the Ferry Building, so you might as well have a cocktail at the Slanted Door bar - isn't that right?

You then called your friend Tom, who works across the street, to come and meet you there? It was before he arrived that you struck up the conversation with the couple next to you, who happened to both work in the restaurant business, he at Boulevard, and she at Pizzetta 211? It was quite a coincidence, was it not - that he used to work at Arterra with Carl Schroeder, the chef who now owns Market - the restaurant where your pastry instructor - Chef James Foran works?

I believe you testified earlier that while seated at the bar, you enjoyed two different cocktails made with fresh juices - one made with Hangar One Vodka, cointreau, orange juice and cranberry, and the other with tequila, lime and guava juice? Previously you described those cocktails as "refreshing and tart" - is that still your opinion?

I'd now like to direct your attention to the dinner you enjoyed with Tom while seated at the bar at the Slanted Door. You ordered four dishes, correct?

And those dishes were the pork spareribs, the glass noodles with crab, the caramel chicken and the caramelized prawns with garlic, organic onions and chili sauce?

You testified previously that you enjoyed the food, but felt it was nothing extraordinary, certainly no better than far more affordable Vietnamese meals you have enjoyed in San Diego?

I believe you also said that it was just after you had finished dinner that your friend Gregg arrived. At that time, since you only had two seats at the bar, you moved over to the lounge area - where Gregg ordered dinner, and you and Tom ordered dessert?

The desserts were both chocolate? One was a pot de creme, and the other a caramel tart with ganache and a salted peanut ice cream?

The salted peanut ice cream was by far the best part of either dessert, was it not?

I have no further questions for this witness.

San Francisco here I come!

This afternoon, I am winging my way to my favorite city by the bay. (Wow, that sounds reeally cheesy!) I'm going for a work training on trial advocacy skills that will go on all day Tues-Thursday, but in between times I do plan to do some eating. Here are the places on my list - we will see how many I actually hit:

Tartine and/or Bar Tartine
Zuni Cafe - meeting up with some friends tomorrow for dinner.
Ame - fine dining with my host and mentor Tom Christopher
Delfina - with Superblogger Sam
Canteen - for lunch or breakfast
The Ferry Building - for some gifts and groceries to take home on Friday.
Bay Bread for some macarons

Maaaybe 'wichcraft. I haven't heard much good about it - but I do like that Tom Colicchio.

I'd also like to stop by Miette Confiserie - I am not sure if it will be convenient for where I will be though, and if I could wedge in a visit to Boulevard, I'd be a happy camper - but I don't see that happening since I will only be there for 5 days, and have vowed to try some new things.

I don't know if I'll have time to post until I get back, though I will try. If not - have a great week and I will see you all on Friday! - Alice

**PM Update**
So I am here, I have wireless access, and I had some time to kill this afternoon, so I drove down to Tartine in the South of Market area. I knew it was on Guerrero, and I thought I had the address memorized (I just happened to see it this morning) but apparently I was wrong. The funny part was I knew it immediately when I drove by the place. I spotted it from the street at full speed just by the crowd and the case of baked goods - even despite the fact that they are currently without a sign.

The fact that the place was mobbed at 5 PM on a Tuesday, indicates to me that it's become a bit of a tourist attraction (I should talk, eh?) I can't put my finger on it, but the croissants didn't do it for me, the texture was brittle, and they were a bit bland. They needed more sugar or salt, or both. I appreciate the fact that most croissants are underbaked, but this one was a bit burned on the top, which was not pleasant. I took photos and will post them later. Their croissants also suffer from a common condition in bakeries here - they were waay too big. I don't need a croissant the size of my head to be happy. I also didn't like the cookies, but I haven't tried the brownie.

While there I spotted Delfina nearby, am looking forward to dinner there on Thursday with Sam. Dinner tomorrow will be either Zuni or Boulevard. This class will keep me busy during the day though, I'm afraid!

If You Build it, They Will Come (The Guild)

The Guild restaurant in Logan Heights looks to be the first wave of gentrification of this zone - a traditionally Hispanic neighborhood east of downtown known as "Barrio Logan." It's really all alone in the neighborhood, but given the development in the nearby eastern half of downtown, it seems a natural extension.

I had heard that the restaurant was also an art gallery - which it is. It's also an art project though. All of the furniture - including the tables and chairs, wall trim, decor - even some of the serving dishes, were made in the machine shop behind the restaurant,-which you can see through a window. Some of them look like really clever metal-shop projects, like the rack that holds three fish tacos, and the ring molds that the lobster crab cake and ahi tartare are served in (lifted just at the time of presentation).

The vibe is hip in a masculine way - all hard edges and slick design. Even so, it is comfortable, even a little cozy, with the low ceilings and wood-lined walls. The host and servers are helpful and easy going but attentive. No "hipper than thou" attitudes in sight.

We were given two menus, one for drinks and one for food - they were equal in length, and there was a full wine list to boot. The drinks are made with soju - since there is no liquor license as of yet. The food is served in "small plate" portions at moderate prices, ranging from about $9 to $15. The servings really only feed two with a small taste, which was fine for us - but some people who like a big plate of food might be disappointed. We tried the lobster crab cake, the kobe beef sliders, the flat iron steak, and the ahi tartare. Both of the beef dishes came with their fries, which were super skinny and crisp.
The lobster crab cake was delicious - a loose pile of crab and lobster meat, served over some intentionally lumpy mashed potatoes and a salad festooned with pepitas. This was one of those dishes that they lifted the metal ring mold off of once it hit the table. Quite a flourish.

The ahi tartare was the other dish. We really liked this, but for it's "wasabi foam" - which was more like wasabi whipped cream. Now, I have nothing against wasabi, and even less against whipped cream, but even so, it's strong stuff, and you really want to control how much you get on your fork. That's hard to do that when it's served in a glass like this. It was almost like a tuna sundae. The cubes of tuna were delicious with the chile oil and avocado - but would have been better if the wasabi flavor weren't quite so overwhelming.

The kobe sliders were smartly presented side by side on a long plate with a little dish of frites, and two accompanying sauces - one was arugula and basil aioli, and the other ketchup. The sliders themselves were garnished with humboldt fog goat cheese, tomato and avocado, and served on rounds of toasted artisan bread - a nice touch. These were juicy, tasty and fun to eat.

The last item was the organic flatiron steak, which was perfectly cooked medium rare, and served with a little bed of frites, some bleu cheese and horseradish sauce - more ketchup too.

It's a nice serving (probably the exact 3 oz we are supposed to be eating) and rivaled the steak frites I've had at other places around town. Better than Modus, maybe not quite as good as Cafe Chloe - but also different.

They have only two desserts, so naturellement, we had to try both. (This was made easier by the fact that they are reasonably priced at $6.00) The first was a "chocolate sandwich" - basically a grilled cheese - made with chocolate instead of cheese. Pure genius. It came with a lump of melting vanilla gelato and a shooter of a chilled espresso cocktail. The sandwich itself was like a pain au chocolat on steroids, all warm and gooey with chocolate and butter. I actually handed it to my husband to take a bite, and said "don't eat much, because you won't like it and I do." What a brat I am (but I was right).

The other dessert was a pineapple upside down cake, with a pina colada shooter and a scoop of coconut rum ice cream. This was good too. Boozy and buttery, can't go wrong with that.

With our meal, we enjoyed a refreshing bottle of "Barrel 27" Viognier from Santa Barbara, Viognier is my new favorite wine to order out, because it goes well with such a wide range of foods and it seems fairly consistent - I haven't had a bad bottle (or glass) yet.

Every table was full while we were there, and by the time we were ready to leave, at about 10 on Thursday, the bar was packed. The atmosphere and location definitely feel like something new and different - which has it's own appeal - but the food is worthwhile enough to stand on its own. There are several things on the menu I'd like to try on a return trip, like the "cheese and vine" wine and cheese pairing - and some of their cocktails.

We will definitely be back.

The Guild Restaurant
1805 Newton Avenue
San Diego, 92113
(619) 564-7584
Open for coffee - 7 AM to 11 AM
Lunch 11 - 4 PM
Interlude - 3-6 PM
Dinner - 4 PM - 10 PM
current menu

Cleaning Out the Queue, Part Two - Lunch at the Napa Valley Grille

It was a bit of a surprise to me, "anti-chain" as I generally am, but I've had a couple of really good lunches at the Napa Valley Grille that I wanted to tell you about.

I've always really liked their patio at the top of Horton Plaza - heck, even their indoor dining room is airy and inviting - but I had thought the food was, well, a little boring on my last couple of visits. Granted, that was a long time ago, but I was expecting more of the same when we planned an office lunch there a few weeks ago.

Looking at the menu before-hand, I noticed that they have several lunch combos named after different areas of the Napa Valley. Each offers half of a sandwich, a cup of soup and a salad - including a crab melt, a steak sandwich, a greek salad, caesar salad among other offerings. Just about everyone else at the table ordered one of these combos, but I decided to go against the grain and order a la carte. Having recently eaten some good mussels at Cafe Chloe, I ordered the Pan-Roasted Prince Edward Mussels and a half caesar salad (which isn't on the menu, but the server offered it up, to her credit.)

To my surprise and delight, the mussels were even better than the ones I'd had at Cafe Chloe. Plump and sweet, they came out in a roasting pan with white wine, garlic and bacon. The wood-fired oven also added it's own smoky element of flavor, and they were served with a garlic smeared crouton and bread for sopping. The caesar salad was also surprisingly good, made with a nice sharp dressing and crisp hearts of romaine.

After this success, I didn't hesitate to recommend a return trip for a girls lunch with my friend Lisa. The weather was a little gloomy that day, so we sat inside at one of their tables for two that line the windows. I'd noticed on the earlier visit that the soup/salad/sandwich combos were a big hit with my co-workers, so I decided to order one that had caught my eye earlier with half of a crab melt sandwich. (Big sucker for crab, am I.) The soup and salad were just fine, but the crab melt was fantastic. A pile of seasoned crab on a slice of buttery toasted brioche, the whole thing topped with melted cheese. Diet food it was not - but it surely was delicious.

Lisa had the half steak sandwich, with the pea soup and a greek salad. Neither one of us could eat all three of the options. I pretty much ignored my soup, and she took her sandwich to go. We both had to add salt to the soup, but other than that she said it was good.

Our server had told us that we were welcome to customize our own combo, choosing whichever sandwich and salad we wanted. We even substituted the soup of the day for the choice that was offered on the menu, which I don't even remember at this point. On both visits the service was excellent, and I liked that they were flexible and helpful about the menu.

After poking around on their website, it appears that they hire "real" chefs for their restaurants, and the may give them a bit more autonomy than most chains. They bake their breads in house, they have a wood fired oven, the service is good, the food is delicious - and especially if you can sit on the patio, the restaurant has a lovely setting.

With all that going for it, so what if it's a chain?

Sorry no photos, but I didn't think to take my camera to work.

Napa Valley Grille
Horton Plaza
(619) 238-5440
lunch menu
recommended dishes: pan roasted mussels, caesar salad, crab melt.

Cleaning out the Queue - Banana Cream Pie

I've decided that I'm tired of feeling backed up and behind, so I'm doing away with the "Coming Up" section on my sidebar. I hope you don't mind too much - you probably won't, since I haven't been following it very closely lately. The fact is that topics get stale - something better comes up, my memory fades, or I just plain old change my mind. Sometimes I wind up with a backlog of topics that don't seem to merit their own posts by the time I get to them, and so I just take them off the list. This time I've resolved not to do that, instead I'm cleaning out the queue by covering the topics over the next few days. Starting with banana cream pie...

The original plan for this post was to compare two different recipes, one loosely adapted from Cooking Light and one from a recent NY Times magazine article about LA diner style banana cream pies. (I would link to the article, but it's already been archived and you would have to pay for it.)

Banana cream pie is one of those desserts that just about everybody loves, even if they don't particularly like bananas all that much. It's old fashioned comfort food, evocative of childhood - and apparently in Los Angeles, it's everywhere. The article recommends trying it at Urth Caffe, Clementine, Jar, Bandera, House of Pies and Pie and Burger - and includes a recipe adapted from Clementine.

The pie is generally made up of four components - the crust, the custard, the bananas and the topping. The bananas and the custard are relatively consistent but common variations include using a pastry or graham cracker crust - and topping the pie with whipped cream or meringue. Wanting to keep it somewhat light while leaving out the chemicals - I topped my pie with a torched meringue instead of the "Cool Whip" type topping called for in the recipe. The custard was thick, creamy and flecked with vanilla bean, and most importantly not too sweet.
After we had licked the last spoon clean, I started thinking about making the "full fat" version. When I dug out the recipe, I was shocked to see that the custard recipes were almost identical, except that the Clementine version calls for the pastry cream to be folded with a little whipped cream instead of the whipped cream cheese - then topped with more whipped cream and creme fraiche. That's a lot of whipped cream! If I do make this again - especially to serve to guests, I will use the custard recipe I used this time, but I will go ahead and top it with the whipped cream. The meringue is - by necessity - just too darned sweet. It won't beat properly if it's not full of sugar, and there's nothing you can do to change that. You can't take the fat out, but at least you can modify the sweetness of your whipped cream topping. I think this recipe combines the best of both worlds.

I did go ahead and cheat a little here, in that I used a pre-made Keebler shortbread crust. Frown if you will, but the truth is that pie crusts and I don't get along very well. My crumb crusts always crumple, and I could market my pastry crusts to UPS as an eco-conscious alternative packaging material. If you think you can do better, by all means go right ahead - I probably should too. I noticed on the package that these things actually have the dreaded trans fats in them.

I suppose you could also use a graham cracker crust here too - but to me, graham cracker crust says cheesecake - or key lime pie. I think the flavor of the banana is much better served by the mild buttery flavor of shortbread. The other debate is whether to put chocolate or other ingredients into the pie. I used a little caramel on the bottom of mine (homemade) but you could also use some dulce de leche - or homemade hot fudge... with a whipped cream topping, some chocolate shavings would also be pretty - I trust you to use your imagination.

LA Diner Style Banana Cream Pie
adapted from Cooking Light and Clementine, by way of the NY Times

Optimally you should make this recipe at least 2-3 but no more than 24 hours before you plan to serve it. Any longer than that and the bananas will start to get slimy on you.

1 Shortbread crumb crust (either pre-made or homemade)

2 Tablespoons cornstarch
1 cup 1% low-fat milk
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
1 Teaspoon vanilla paste (or half of a vanilla bean scraped, plus 1 teaspoon vanilla extract)
2 Tablespoons of butter
2 ounces "Neufchatel" or block light cream cheese, softened

2 bananas, sliced
1 cup heavy cream
2 Tablespoons creme fraiche
1 heaping Tablespoon powdered sugar

caramel topping or homemade caramel cooked to the soft ball stage.

crisp lightly fried banana chips (Trader Joes has them) or ordinary banana chips

Combine the 2 tablespoons cornstarch, 1/2 cup sugar, 1/4 teaspoon salt, eggs, 1 cup milk, vanilla paste and 1 Tablespoon of butter in a heavy saucepan over medium heat, stirring constantly with a whisk. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, and cook for 30 seconds or until thick. Remove from heat and stir in the second tablespoon of butter. Pass through a fine mesh sieve.

Using the whisk attachment to a hand blender, beat cream cheese until light and smooth, about 30 seconds. Add 1/4 cup of the warm custard to the cream cheese, and beat just until blended. Stir in remaining custard. Cover the surface directly with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Custard can be made up to two days in advance.

To assemble, cover the bottom of the pie shell with a thin layer of caramel, and dot the caramel with a layer of banana slices. Spread with custard to cover, add another layer of banana slices and fill the pie shell with the remaining custard.

With a standing mixer or whisk attachment to a hand blender, beat the cream and creme fraiche until foamy and thick. Sift in the powdered sugar and beat to soft peaks. Top the pie with the cream topping and garnish with banana chips. Refrigerate at least 2 hours before serving.

Serves 8 - 10

Gigantic Crab Cakes ala Boulevard

I actually intended to make not only these crabcakes, but a (second) banana cream pie on Sunday afternoon - thinking that would make a really fantastic meal. Alas, I ran out of time. That shouldn't have been a surprise, given that this is the second time I have delved into the insanely complicated Boulevard cookbook. Reading this book, I get the feeling that the authors had a hard time pinning the chefs down. They as much as admit that they are really second nature cooks, and don't really believe in precision. That might be ok if you have your eyes open going in, but if you tried to follow one of their recipes to the letter I think it could be a very disappointing experience.

The book offers two recipes for crabcakes - one bound only with mayonnaise, more like a crab salad that is simply seared on both sides, and a more traditional version with breadcrumbs and egg. As accompaniments, they offer recipes for two vinaigrettes, asparagus and lemon. The presentation is a crabcake on one side of the plate, and a crab "salad" of lemon vinaigrette, asparagus and crabmeat on the other. It didn't really look too difficult, considering that the vinaigrettes don't even have to be cooked, and the crabcakes are sort of thrown together - but of course it it wasn't that easy.

The crabcakes were excellent - I made a few slight adaptations according to taste and what I had available - the recipe appears below. The vinaigrettes were another story. For the lemon vinaigrette, they suggested cutting a whole lemon into pieces and whizzing it in a blender, peel and all - with corn syrup, oil and champagne vinegar and a dash of salt. Then straining it of ocurse. I was skeptical but I tried it, and it was utterly disgusting. I threw it out and started over using just the fruit and the zest - having trimmed off the pith - which worked great.


The asparagus vinaigrette recipe didn't even call for vinegar - how is that possible?? I steamed and trimmed the spears as indicated and used some fresh herbs I had on hand, as well as olive oil, red wine vinegar and a little lemon juice and salt. I actually put a little too much salt in. It was edible but not really fantastic or anything.

Next time I make this I will definitely make the crabcakes smaller. I couldn't find my two inch ring mold and used a cookie cutter, which turned out to be a little too large - especially since the crabcakes spread a bit when unmolded. They completely dwarfed my little salad, which makes the picture look a little ridiculous. I also need to get some of those long plates that work so well for a two part presentation. Regardless, the finished dish tasted great, and that alone made it all worthwhile. I will definitely make this again using what I learned - and hopefully it will be prettier next time!



Crabcakes with Lemon Vinaigrette, Asparagus and Crab Salad
adapted from the Boulevard Cookbook

For the Crabcakes:
The meat from 2 dungeness crabs - about 10 ounces - leg meat and lump meat separated. (I used two whole crabs from Costco)
2 tablespoons finely diced celery
1 tablespoon finely minced onion - preferably red onion or spring onion
1/4 jalapeno pepper, finely diced (about 1 tsp)
1 Tablespoon minced chives
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 cup mayonnaise
2 Tablespoons of beaten egg (beat the egg in a bowl, then measure into the mixture)
2 Tablespoons bread crumbs
2 cups pf panko bread crumbs
2 Tablespoons of olive oil

Place the lump crabmeat in a bowl with the dry ingredients and toss to coat. Fold in the mayonnaise, bread crumbs and egg. Pick through the leg meat and reserve the best looking pieces for the salad. Add the rest to the crabcakes and stir in lightly. Refrigerate the crab mixture for at least a half hour. (Make the vinaigrettes while the crabmeat is in the refrigerator.)

When it's time to cook, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Prepare a bowl of panko bread crumbs, and heat the olive oil in an oven proof skillet. Mold the crab into four 2 inch cakes with a ring mold. Coat the top and bottom of the cakes with panko crumbs, patting it on. Fry in the skillet until one side is golden brown, then flip over and put the pan in the oven for 10-15 minutes, until the other side is golden brown.

While the crabcakes are in the oven, plate the salad. Drizzle a little lemon vinaigrette on one side of the plate, and make a round pool of the asparagus on the other. Arrange the asparagus spears in a little stack, with the crabmeat on top. Drizzle with a little more lemon vinaigrette.

When the crabcakes come out of the oven - place one on top of the asparagus vinaigrette, and top with a tangle of microgreens. Serve with lemon wedges.

Lemon Vinaigrette:
1 medium lemon, cut in half lengthwise
1 Tablespoon of light corn syrup
1 Tablespoon of Champagne Vinegar
1/4 cup of canola or other mildly flavored oil (they suggest grapeseed)
dash of salt

Using a paring knife, remove the peel from one half of the lemon. Put the fruit in the blender(I used a hand blender). Scrape the pith from the peel - laying it flat on a cutting board and scraping away from you until nothing but yellow remains. Cut the zest into strips and put in the blender and add the corn syrup, vinegar and salt. With the machine running, add the oil in a slow stream. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and adjust to taste using salt, corn syrup or lemon juice from the other half of the lemon if necessary.

Asparagus Vinaigrette:
12 spears of medium sized asparagus
1 Tablespoon of minced cilantro
1 Tablespoon of red wine vinegar
1 squeeze of lemon juice
scant 1/4 cup mildly flavored oil such as canola or grapeseed
2 Tablespoons olive oil
dash salt

Blanch the asparagus until crisp-tender in a skillet of simmering water. Trim the tips at 3 inches. place the ends in the blender with the vinegar, lemon juice and herbs. With the blender running, add the oils in a slow stream and blend for a few seconds. Strain through a fine mesh sieve then add a teaspoon or so of the pulp back in to give it some body.

Cupcakes for Breakfast (Cafe R&D and Sprinkles - Orange County)

The OC and I have a complicated relationship, going all the way back to my college days at UC Irvine. Irvine was not my first choice of school - in fact, it wasn't even on my radar screen, but after a long ordeal - the details of which I will not bore you with - it is where I wound up earning my degree. The full effect of the Orange Curtain wasn't quite as obvious then. The area wasn't quite as upscale as it is now - but it was always wound a little tighter than San Diego.

As much as I hate the cookie cutter atmosphere - a result of the ubiquitous iron fist of the Irvine Company - I have to admit there are some things to like. For some reason, Orange County-ites are blessed with more shopping and dining options than we have here in San Diego, including a number of chains that we don't have - most notably Houston's and it's various incarnations - Bandera, Cafe R&D, Gulfstream, etc. Don't get me wrong - I am not saying we need more chains in San Diego, but it wouldn't be a bad thing if some of the ones we do have were replaced with some better ones. I can virtually guarantee that if you opened a Houston's somewhere out here in the East County it would become the new Brigantine, so crowded you couldn't get near it

Orange County also has the lovely little burg of Laguna Beach - notable for the fabulous Pageant of the Masters, as well as the television show named after it. (Aren't you glad Lauren finally dumped that loser Jason??) And of course, who doesn't like Disneyland?

This trip to the place I love to hate was motivated by three purposes, to visit a couple of stores, have lunch with my parents who were up there visiting, and see my friend Patty, who just had her second baby - a gorgeous little munchkin named Connor.

My first stop was the Crate and Barrel in South Coast Plaza, to check out their outdoor furniture. I love that this store is directly next to the parking lot - very convenient for dashing in and out. It's a two story behemoth, stocked to the gills with every Crate and Barrel product and a full furniture selection. We're actually getting on in San Diego this fall, at the UTC mall.

After that I was planning to meet my parents for lunch - but they were running a bit late, so I headed over toward Fashion Island to the new Sprinkles cupcake store - in the Corona Del Mar Plaza just south of the mall. This little mini-mall is sort of a turbo yuppie center, with a Gulfstream restaurant, Sur la Table, Bristol Farms, and of course, Sprinkles. When I arrived around 12 PM, there were a few people in line, but nothing outrageous. I went ahead and ordered my cupcakes, and decided to come back and pick them up so I wouldn't have to tote them around.

I then went over to the Bristol Farms and roamed the aisles, snarfing up samples. I had ham and turkey, which I coupled with the jalapeno cream cheese and crackers at another station, a chocolate madeleine, fresh ground peanut butter and jelly, and some cheese and crackers. A yummy snack.

Next stop was Sur la Table, where I fawned over this Mario Batali dutch oven, and looked for the pastry mats that we used in my class this week - they're used to make those decorative strips you see around fancy cakes, where there's a chocolate pattern in the cake. They didn't have them, but I snapped up a mini-popover pan and a marble pastry board that seemed a bargain to me at $39.95. (I've been meaning to go to a stoneyard to pick up a sink cut for free, but just haven't had the time. )

I then headed up to the Marriott to meet up with the parents. They actually live in San Diego - but are huge Marriott point collectors - to the point where they sometimes go on trips like this one just for the points. I'm generally not a fan of chain hotels, but this one is actually pretty nice - it's been fully remodeled in the style of a W or Westin, with the nice fluffy white bed and stylish common areas.

From the hotel we walked over to the Cafe R&D at Patty's suggestion. When she told me about it she said that it was hugely popular and we should get on the waiting list ahead of time, which I had. I suspected from the look of it that the restaurant was part of the Hillstone chain - as in Houston's - which it turns out it is. Patty was right - it was mobbed when I arrived and put my name in, and by the time we got back there (and we didn't rush) we still had a few minutes to wait.

The menu consists of sandwiches and salads, with a few sides for the table. The simple concept is interesting, but also a little irritating - it's not exactly cheap, and you don't have much choice. I was really surprised there wasn't an option of a chicken sandwich - one of my favorite dishes from the Rutherford Grill menu (dressed with watercress and lemon.) The available options included a cheeseburger, a french dip, a "suburban" tuna salad sandwich, a reuben sandwich, and sides including french fries, deviled eggs, warm potato salad, and I think a regular potato salad. I should have nicked a menu, but I wasn't really thinking.

The salads are basic for the most part. Spinach and chicken with cheese, nuts and apples, ahi tuna tartare, a seared tuna, a steak option, chinese chicken, chopped salad, and one with beets I think. We were eating late and wanted to keep it light - so we decided to split two things between the three of us, a cheeseburger and a spinach salad - and a side of fries. They were fresh and skinny, and the burger was fantastic. It was fat and juicy and dressed with just the right amount of pickle, mustard, shredded lettuce, tomato and cheese, on a tender spongy brioche bun. The kitchen had assembled it and cut it into thirds for us, but ordinarily it comes to the table open face. The salad was also very good, with tender chicken - lots of nuts and cheese and a nice dressing with good flavor - if a little sweet.

Service was mediocre - I didn't like it that they brought the fries well before the entrees came out. Were they hoping we would eat them all and order more? I almost wanted to ask them for some fresh ones to eat with the burger. Instead of refilling iced tea at the table, they wait until the glass is empty, then take it and replace it with a new one. Not a bad idea if they are on the ball, but we sat for ten minutes with nothing to drink.

Someone on Yelp mentions that the name of the restaurant reflects its purpose - as research and development for the remaining restaurants in the Hillstone group. This seems odd, since the menu is more along the lines of a 1950's coffee shop. What are they experimenting with?

It seems to me that the draw of this place is really the atmosphere. The bar in the center creates a lively vibe, and the decor is simple but elegant - a cut above most standard chain restaurants. They have cool roll up doors that allow for open access to the outdoor area, lots of wood, terrazo floors, bowls of lemons and limes on the bar - clearly design was taken into consideration. They serve three meals, breakfast lunch and dinner - all with similarly simple menus. If you are ever doing business in the Newport Center/Fashion Island area, it's certainly worth a look.

Sprinkles also uses good design to sell a product that is really more or less ordinary. That's not to say it isn't good - in my mind, there's absolutely nothing wrong with an ordinary cupcake.

When I returned to the store to pick up the cakes I had purchased earlier, the line was unbelievable. At least thirty people. I waltzed past the line (after taking a photo) and went to the pickup window, where I was handed my bag. I forgot to snag a few of their cool little wooden forks and knives - it's touches like those (and the thin disposable wooden plates) that really make this place interesting. I was scolded for trying to take a picture inside, but there is a photo on their own website.

After picking up the cakes, I headed down to Patty's for a visit. I gave her a box of four, and had intended to buy myself a box of four as well, but it turned out there were five flavors I wanted to try, and well, what's a girl to do? I got red velvet, vanilla, dark chocolate, peanut butter chocolate, and banana.

Patty and I each had a little bite - about a quarter of one, just to taste. When I got home though, it was late and I was on my own... so what did I have for dinner? I think you can guess. I polished off the chocolate one myself, and the vanilla with a little help from the dogs. This morning I woke up a little too late to cook, since James had to head to work. So what did I have for breakfast? Yup, you got it. Remember the Bill Cosby routine? "Dad is great, he gave us the chocolate cake?" There's one left, but three cupcake meals in a row would be a bit much, even for me.

On Chowhound and Yelp there are many complaints that the frosting is too sweet, and the cake too dense. I have no idea what these people are expecting. The fact is that you just can't make frosting out of sugar and butter without a hell of a lot of powdered sugar - it provides the texture. The cake is dense and moist - rather than spongy and light, but that's really just a matter of preference. It's a nice tangy sour cream/buttermilk recipe and stands up better to the frosting than most would. It also lasts a while without getting stale. (Not that I would know anything about that!) Of the five my least favorite was the banana - which was a little tough. The moist dark chocolate cake and frosting were really excellent - and the red velvet and peanut butter chocolate are not far behind. The flavor of the vanilla cake was pretty good too, but the vanilla frosting was really cloying. My dog, however loooved it. He sat down on the floor next to the counter where the box was sitting and cried for more. They do sell doggie cupcakes, but they were tiny, and at $2.50 a pop I just couldn't do it. Grown-up cupcakes are $3.25 a pop. That's bad enough.

After digging around a bit on the internet, I came up with the recipe for the frosting that they use on the dark chocolate cupcakes. Note that this is a different recipe from the one that appears on the can of dark chocolate cake mix they sell. Why I don't know - but I am quite sure this one is better, based on the fact that it contains three times as much chocolate (though it also frosts twice as many cupcakes). I intend to try it soon.

Sprinkles Dark Chocolate Frosting
reprinted from Oprah.com

10 ounces of dark chocolate, chopped
1 pound of butter at room temperature
1.5 pounds of powdered sugar
1/8 teaspoon of salt
1 tsp of pure vanilla extract
1/2 cup sour cream

Melt chocolate over a double boiler or in microwave and allow to cool until just slightly warm. Beat butter until light and fluffy. With mixer on low speed, gradually add powdered sugar. Add salt, vanilla and sour cream, and mix until very smooth. Add chocolate and mix until just incorporated. Don't over-whip; it will add too much air to the frosting. The consistency should be rich and dense, like ice cream.

Cafe R&D
Fashion Island - Newport Beach
recommended dishes - the Cheeseburger

Sprinkles Cupcakes
Corona Del Mar Plaza location - Newport Beach
recommended - Dark Chocolate, Red Velvet and Peanut Butter and Chocolate - the flavors change daily and there is a chart on their website.

Other recommended stops in Orange County:
Zinc Cafe and Market in Laguna Beach
The Shake Shack - on PCH in Crystal Cove between Corona del Mar and Laguna Beach
230 Forest Avenue Restaurant
The new Kate Spade and Anthropologie at Fashion Island - heavenly for the eyes, if not the wallet.