Amazingly, I think I ate almost as well on this trip to Disneyland as I did on my last trip to the Bay Area. Who'd have thunk it? Happily, it seems that they are focusing more on the quality of their food - not just in the parks but all around the resort. They are even hosting Wine and Food Weekends in the California Adventure park and some of the hotel restaurants every weekend through May 20 - with celebrity chef presentations, cooking classes, wine tastings, etc. It looked like most of the events were already sold out, but based on the success of this one it seems likely they will do more. Annual passholders are also invited to a food and wine festival called "Taste" with booths from many of the hotel and park restaurants and chefs. If you live in Southern California, an annual pass actually isn't such a bad deal. As long as you are willing to give up going on the most crowded days, the pass is less than the cost of two parkhopper passes - $154.00. An even more restricted pass is available for $124.00.
One of the things I love about Disneyland is that on every visit, there are always new surprises. This time we heard some fantastic bluegrass music at the Golden Horseshoe Revue (apparently they have given up the showgirls I remember from childhood), we nuzzled with the goats at the petting zoo, and toured the Golden Books exhibit at the Disney Gallery above Pirates of the Caribbean. We got a huge kick out of watching the kiddie Jedi training in Tomorrowland, (they teach a bunch of kids to fight with light sabers - then Storm Troopers and Darth Vader show up and the kids have to fight him to save the republic) and battling it out with each other on the Buzz Lightyear Astro Blasters (James wiped the floor with me.)
Favorite surprises from past visits have included the Haunted House decorated for the Nightmare Before Christmas, which they now do every year between Halloween and Christmas, the amazingly intricate decor in the Hollywood Hotel - aka the Tower of Terror, the live Who Wants to Be a Millionaire game show (alas, gone), and the Soarin' Over California ride, which was closed on this visit, unfortunately. We were also fortunate enough to have the opportunity several years ago to eat lunch at Club 33 with a friend of the family who chose to take a group of friends there for her retirement party.
Aside from the other fun stuff, on this trip we also had some surprisingly good meals. We started with lunch the day of arrival at the Uva bar in Downtown Disney. Uva is downstairs from Catal, a Mediterranean restaurant owned by Joachim Splichal of the Patina Group. The bar serves a menu of sandwiches, salads and pizzas - as well as cocktails - all day, in a patio set up in the middle of the Downtown Disney mall. We started off a little bit cursed, because it was late for lunch (we had tried to find the exit for the In-N-Out in Mission Viejo, but missed it) so there were very few customers. Ironically, I find it's in those situations that you sometimes get the worst service. We started out with a couple of cocktails (we're on vacation, baby!) a burger for me, and pizza for James. My margarita was a little watery, and came with the sorriest looking lime wedge I think I've ever seen. James ordered some crazy cocktail containing Rockstar Energy drink based on the servers' recommendation. I thought it was disgusting, but he drank it. It couldn't have hurt that it was about 95 degrees.
The burger was pretty good, but the quality wasn't quite what I was expecting hoping for. The pickles were just like Mc Donalds,' the cheese wasn't fully melted and the meat was a little dry. The bun and the fries were very good though, and it hit the spot. James was disappointed that the artichokes and olives on his pizza were canned, but the crust and cheese were good. Overall, it was fine - but nothing you'd go running back for. (Photos are in the collage above, to enlarge, just click on it.)
After lunch, we wandered over to the park. The crowd was starting to thin, mostly because of the heat. Main Street was packed with sweaty kids in strollers being pushed by their worn out parents, and we were able to get on lots of rides with absolutely no wait. We hit Indiana Jones, the Golden Horseshoe Revue, the shooting gallery in Frontierland, the Snow White ride in Fantasyland (just because there was nobody in line), the Jedi training, Space Mountain, Buzz Lightyear's Astro Blasters - and I think that was about it for the first day. Somewhere in there we shared a frozen banana. (James said the mothers of small children were glaring at me, but I am quite certain it was just his imagination.)
After chilling at the hotel for a little while, we decided to change our dinner reservation to the Napa Rose. We've been there a couple of times before and thought it was just ok, but I had read a few good comments on Chowhound recently. We made a late reservation, and my friend Patty came out to join us since her husband Josh was in Vegas (reportedly enjoying dinner at the 9ine Steakhouse at the Palms.)
After polishing off a bottle of Perrier Jouet around the outdoor firepit, we sat down for dinner. The dining room is expansive - with an open kitchen, a large bar area, and dining room. The decor is in the style of Charles Rennie Mackintosh, with lots of wood and signature deco-style roses. For starters, we chose the cornmeal crepes filled with dungeness crab, scallops with a vanilla lobster sauce, and duck confit. All three were excellent, but the scallops were damn near perfect.

They had a wonderful "fond" - that brown crust that comes from proper cooking - and were tender and perfectly sweet. There were large pieces of lobster meat, and the buttery sauce had a very subtle vanilla and citrus flavor. The dish also included a small dollop of incredibly rich mashed potatoes.

The duck confit was crisp and tender, set in a rich broth with baby vegetables. The crepe was probably the weakest of the bunch, but it suffered from comparison with the scallop. The crepes were light and thin - filled with a mixture of julienned vegetables and crabmeat, with a drizzle of curried carrot broth.

For our mains, I stuck with seafood, ordering the halibut with baby tomatoes, fingerling potatoes, pesto and mint salad. James ordered the steak, which came with a rich smoky macaroni and cheese with bacon, and broccolini. The macaroni and cheese was made with orzo, which made it almost more of a pudding than a casserole. The steak was perfectly cooked medium rare and very flavorful. The halibut was also beautifully seared and I liked the contrast of the buttery potatoes with the cool sweet tomatoes, basil and mint.

For dessert we decided to share a sampler of mini desserts, which came out on a large glass platter with a pulled sugar rose in the center. The little delicacies included a pineapple cheesecake, a strawberry shortcake with lemon curd, a Scharffenberger chocolate mousse cake and a berry cobbler served with a tiny scoop of sorbet. Each of them was perfectly sculpted and adorable to look at, but the simplest one - the shortcake with strawberries and lemon curd - was by far the best.

The chocolate was also perfectly acceptable - but the pineapple cheesecake and cobbler dish were a little cloying. We also ordered a Bailey's irish cream and chocolate dessert, which came with a shot glass of pot de creme and a chunk of a rich chocolate ganache-like mousse, which was also very good. (There are more photos in the collage above, to enlarge, just click on it.)
The only real problem with the meal was entirely my fault. The restaurant has a huge wine list, and I was tasked with finding us a wine to enjoy with the starters. I didn't really think we'd get through three bottles, but I thought a nice fruity white would be nice with the food we had ordered and with my entree, and James could get a glass of red to go with his steak. On a whim, I passed up the Nora Albarino, one of my favorites, and decided to experiment with a Roussanne, from Qupe. We've tried several Qupe wines in the past and liked them all, so I was hoping this would be no different. When the sommelier/server opened the bottle and poured me a taste, I hesitated. I didn't like it, but I didn't quite know why. I didn't think there was anything wrong with it - but it seemed a little off. I know that a larger percentage of wines are corked than most people realize - but if this one was, it wasn't obvious enough for me to recognize it right away. I nodded, and he poured the glasses. None of us liked it. It had all of the heaviness of Chardonnay with none of the smoothness or butteriness. It was also six years in the bottle, which had apparently left it with even more bitterness than usual. We managed to polish it off, but a better wine would have enhanced our enjoyment of the meal far more. I really wished I had asked more questions, and relied on a recommendation from the sommelier - but I guess that's how you learn. At least, that's how I learn.
The following day, we slept in and I went to the pool for a quick swim before breakfast. The hotel's casual restaurant, the Storyteller Cafe, is right near there, and was literally packed at 8:30 AM, with about fifty strollers outside.

I had lobbied for the La Brea Bakery earlier, but James wanted pancakes, so that's where we were headed. I was hoping that most of the people would have cleared out by the time we came back, since the California Adventure park opened at 9, but no luck - so we moseyed on over to the La Brea Bakery.

The bakery is currently under construction - the dining room and kitchen are closed, so the options were limited to pre-made pastries and coffee drinks. We chose a couple of sweet pastries and some savory breakfast options they had, including a pierogi-like brioche stuffed with potato, and an egg and cheese puff. With some strong coffee and grapefruit juice we were good to go.
The potato stuffed pastry was particularly good, and their pastries and croissants were authentically buttery.

The only slight disappointment was the sugar-crusted morning bun, which was bready like a cinnamon roll when I had expected it to be made from a flaky dough.

California Adventure was first up that day, which seems to be the right plan for beating the crowd. I think everyone who shows up in the morning goes to Disneyland first and California Adventure second (if at all) so the crowds are fairly thin there in the mornings. We walked along the boardwalk and went on California Screamin - again, no lines. We got soaked on the Grizzly River Rapids ride, and plunged however-many stories on the Tower of Terror. The "Hollywood" zone in the California Adventure was packed with small kids and their parents who were there for the shows that they offer - apparently they are the best in the park. The Bug's Life attraction is also near there and is great for little kids.

Just after noon, we decided to head over to Disneyland to see if we could get on the list for a table at the Blue Bayou. It hadn't occurred to us that they would be completely sold out based on the lack of crowds on the rides, but they were. We went on a couple of rides we had missed the day before - Pirates of the Carribean with the new Jack Sparrow additions (new to us, anyway) and the Haunted House - and decided to check out the Cafe Orleans restaurant on New Orleans Square. They gave us a beeper, and we went up to the Disney Gallery to kill some time.
We actually discovered this place a few years ago, it's really kind of hidden away, and isn't always open - but when it is it's a great place to get away from the crowds. The stairs are right next to the little cafe that serves the bread bowls of soup, above the Pirates of the Caribbean, and in the shop they sell high-end Disneyana, posters from the rides (like the ones at the entrance) and original art work. They also have exhibits - this time there were concept drawings for many of the rides, including the Matterhorn, Casey Jr's Circus Train, and the 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea Submarine Ride (which will be replaced by a new Finding Nemo ride opening the first week of June.) The other exhibit was across the courtyard (a nice spot with tables) and featured Golden Books from the 40s and 50s - they had the mockups and original cover art drawings along with some of the finished books on display. Some of the artwork was gorgeous. While we were looking at that exhibit our beeper went off for lunch.

They have changed the menu at the Cafe, and now serve the Monte Cristo sandwich, fritters and some other specialities from the Blue Bayou. They also serve baskets of really good garlicky pomme frites (every table seemed to have some) and a mean crab salad sandwich, made with sweet fresh crabmeat, tomatoes, remoulade and avocado on a toasted buttered roll. I was impressed. This place seemed almost as popular as the Blue Bayou - It must have been nearly 2:00 PM by the time we ate there, and it was just starting to clear out when we left. (Again, more photos in the collage, to enlarge, just click on it.)
After lunch, we went on Big Thunder Mountain, and then spied the little petting zoo - back behind the ride near the meeting area. The zoo houses the presidential pardon turkey, and a number of sheep and goats (including several babies), a couple of ponies and a cow.

The goats were very cute and seemed to like the attention. They had an area behind a low fence that they could retreat to if they got tired of being handled, and there were staff members on hand to make sure everyone behaved themselves. After one last rematch on the Astro Blasters (where I got beat even worse than the last time) we headed home.

Disneyland really makes a good short getaway trip from San Diego or LA, especially if you stay in one of the hotels. I really love the Grand Californian - it's decorated in the Craftsman lodge style, and the common areas are gorgeous - the soaring open lobby with the giant fireplace, the wide staircases the terrazo and wood inlaid floors and authentic arts and crafts decor light fixtures, pottery, etc. Much of it was custom made especially for the hotel, and there are cases containing art pottery and other turn of the century artifacts in the staircases and the lobby.
The pool is a great place to relax in the afternoon, and the spa is now run by Mandara - we didn't have a chance to try it but we might have if we had stayed longer. The rates aren't cheap, but for one night I really think it's worth it - especially when the parks are open late. It's great to go in the morning, retreat to the pool in the hottest hours of the afternoon, and go back after dark. We couldn't do that on this trip because the parks weren't open late (they are prepping for the premiere of the new Pirates of the Caribbean Movie - At World's End) but it really makes sense - especially if you have kids who need to nap (like James!)
Where we went:
The Disney Grand Californian Hotel
reserve online or call (714) 976-MICKEY - well in advance. If you want to make one night reservations for the hotel online, you must choose hotel only.
The Uva Bar (and Catal Restaurant)
(714)774-4442
or go to www.opentable.com for reservations
The Napa Rose at the Grand Californian. We called through the hotel front desk for reservations, which might work better than "priority seating." If you are dining with kids, they also have a large bar area with coffee tables, lounge chairs and couches where they can have some room to roam around.
La Brea Bakery - kitchen currently closed for renovations, serving pastries, sandwiches and beverages only
Cafe Orleans - near Pirates of the Caribbean, sandwiches, salads, crepes and fritters.
Other recommendations:
The Haagen Dazs in Downtown Disney makes a mean black and white (vanilla ice cream with chocolate sauce) malt.
The skewers at the Bengal BBQ are good for a quick bite
Pineapple Whip by the Tiki Room is good and cold, but it could be a little more tart.
The fritters in New Orleans Square are good - but it's just not the same when you can't get them from the Mint Julep Bar anymore!