Sunday, September 30, 2007

Decadent but not so Daring...

Alas, I didn't have time for the Daring Bakers' challenge this month, which was Cinnamon Rolls and Sticky Buns. But several months ago (almost a year exactly) I posted about Cinnamon Rolls (from scratch) along with an Orange Pecan French Toast that is strikingly similar to a sticky bun - though much, much easier.

The original post was titled "Sunday Morning Decadence Two Ways" - with good reason, if I do say so myself. I thought I'd re-post these today, in honor of the challenge and so as to give my fellow Daring Bakers something to look at in the way of delicious breakfast-things. - Enjoy!

p.s. - I almost forgot - click here to see to see what the truly daring bakers made!
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I am a huge fan of indulgent breakfasts. Breakfast is my favorite meal of the day and I love sweets, so it naturally follows that I would love them for breakfast.

I love that you have the whole rest of the day to burn it off, though I know that's not really how it works. Still, there's nothing like a delicious buttery pastry and good strong coffee to kick start the day. Given that I don't eat these things often and generally don't eat for hours after indulging I think the calories almost even out - or at least close to it.

A few months ago, we did the doughnut muffins, which are really good - pretty much unbeatable, given the ease with which they are made, and the fantastic and satisfying flavor. Everybody loves them.
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A couple of weeks ago though, James outdid himself when he prepared not only the doughnut muffins but this to die for Orange Pecan French Toast. It doesn't photograph very well cold, sadly - but I was too excited about eating it to photograph it when it was still warm. It's really more like a sticky bun, with a bread base on the bottom, and is oh so good. There is no need for syrup - since the topping makes its own, but the sweet orange flavor is fantastic with a dollop of creme fraiche and some berries. This is also pretty easy, given that you just mix everything up and dump it in the pan - then bake it in the morning.
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This week, I decided to try my hand at some cinnamon rolls. We had a bake sale at work to raise money for breast cancer awareness and I wanted to bring something breakfast-y, since it started at 9 AM. I started with a recipe of this dough, made in two batches and wound up with thirty rolls. They were rather time consuming to make - but I was quite proud of myself, having never made anything with a yeast dough before in my life (unless you include a couple of not-so-successful attempts at bread made with a grape sourdough starter ages ago). I think the next time I try these, I will do up the flavors a bit, just to make them a bit more interesting - but this traditional version was very good.

I think I'm going to need a bigger KitchenAid if I'm going to become a bread person, because that thing only holds about a fist sized ball of dough! Someone else suggested using a bread machine to mix the dough and bake it through the first rise - after which you can take it out and shape it or do other things with it, but that kind of takes the "hands on" fun out of it.

Anyway - here are the recipes. Both of these require night before planning, but are well worth the effort - indulge and enjoy!

Orange Pecan French Toast
(adapted from allrecipes.com)
Serves 6

1/2 cup packed brown sugar
1/3 cup butter, melted
2 tablespoons light corn syrup
1/3 cup chopped toasted pecans
12 (3/4 inch thick) slices French bread (we used a baguette)
1 teaspoon grated orange zest
1/2 cup fresh orange juice
1/2 cup whole milk
3 tablespoons white sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 egg whites
2 eggs
1 tablespoon confectioners' sugar for dusting

1/2 pint creme fraiche - stirred
fresh berries for garnish

  1. In a small bowl, stir together the brown sugar, melted butter, and corn syrup. Pour into a greased 9x13 inch baking dish, and spread evenly. Sprinkle pecans over the sugar mixture.
  2. Arrange the bread slices in the bottom of the dish so they are in a snug single layer.
  3. In a medium bowl, whisk together the orange zest, orange juice, milk, sugar, cinnamon, vanilla, egg whites, and eggs. Pour this mixture over the bread, pressing on the bread slices to help absorb the liquid.
  4. Cover and refrigerate for at least one hour, or overnight.
    Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C ). Remove the cover from the baking dish and let stand for 20 minutes at room temperature.
  5. Bake for 35 minutes in the preheated oven, until golden brown. Serve with a dollop of creme fraiche and fresh berries
Cinnamon Rolls
Makes 15 (one 9x13 inch pan)

Dough:
Half of this recipe - prepared through the first rise and punched down.

Filling:
1 stick of butter - softened
5 Tablespoons of good quality cinnamon
1 cup of brown sugar

Cream Cheese frosting:
4 oz of cream cheese, softened
1 stick of butter, softened
1 cup of powdered sugar - sifted
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
2 drops of lemon extract or oil (optional)

Line a 9x13 inch baking pan with parchment paper, and lightly grease the paper.
In a small bowl, mix the cinnamon and brown sugar together with a fork.
After punching the dough down, divide it into two pieces. Let it rest for a few minutes, then roll and stretch each piece into a rectangle about 13" x 9", with the long edge facing you (it should be about a quarter of an inch thick). Spread softened butter on the rectangle, leaving a one inch border at the top uncovered. Evenly sprinkle half of the brown sugar and cinnamon mixture over the butter - still leaving the one inch border at the top. Starting at the bottom left corner - start rolling the sheet of dough away from you, until the border at the top comes in contact with the outside. Evenly slice the roll into pieces about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches thick, and place in the paper lined pan about 1 inch apart and one inch from the edges of the pan. Repeat with the second half of the dough.

From this point you can either let them proof at room temperature (preferably in a warm moist place) for about 30-45 minutes - at which time they should be ready for baking - or proof them in the refrigerator overnight. You can also cover the pans and freeze them. If you do this, leave them out on the counter (covered) overnight and they will be ready for baking in the morning - this is what I did and it worked well.

Bake at 350 for about fifteen to twenty minutes, until they start to brown on the top. If they look brown but aren't done yet (pull up the center of the middle roll to check) you can cover them with foil to finish baking.

Meanwhile, make the cream cheese frosting. Whip the cream cheese and butter in a mixer fitted with the wire whip attachment. Sift in the powdered sugar and add enough milk to make it a pourable consistency. Beat in the vanilla and lemon extract or oil (be careful with the lemon oil - just a little too much can make it taste like pledge!)

When the rolls are still warm, drizzle the frosting over and spread it around with a spatula or brush. These are best served still warm from the oven.

Tuesday, September 18, 2007

The Super Local Summer BBQ

The Super Local Summer BBQ
September 15, 2007

"Robertson Estate" Fresh-Squeezed Lemonade
Hangar One Vodka
Sodas and Assorted Local Beers

Oasis Hummus
La Salsa Chilena Chips and Salsa
Winchester Gouda cheese
Herbed Queso Fresco with Fresh Vegetables
Crostini

Deviled San Pasqual Academy Eggs
Rancho Gordo Yellow Indian Woman Beans
Farmer’s Market Heirloom Tomato and Basil Salad
with Burrata Cheese

Brandt Beef Burgers
Linkery Sausages
Bread on Market Rolls

Homemade Spicy Ketchup and Grain Mustard
Shaved Medium-Aged Winchester Gouda
Pickled Red Onions
Onions, Tomatoes and Leaf Lettuces

Homemade Vanilla Bean Ice Cream
"Boulevard" Hot Fudge
Salted Peanuts
Whipped Cream

Chocolate Caramel Tart Bites
Brownie Bites

I know I've been a delinquent blogger as of late, but I have an excuse. I was busy preparing for the party we threw last Saturday - the first one since we re-did our backyard specifically for that purpose. It was great to see everyone out there enjoying themselves. If you came, I hope you had a good time!

Jay from the Linkery supplied us with the meat, burgers and sausages at a very reasonable price, and we bought cheeses from Taste in Hillcrest (including local Gouda from Winchester, near Temecula), veggies from the La Mesa and Hillcrest Farmers Markets, dairy from Strauss, beans from Rancho Gordo (not San Diego local, but small and conscientious - plus Steve is just really cool) and I made some other stuff from local produce - including pretty decent batches of ketchup and homemade mustard. We also made (actually, Jodi made) a huge batch of lemonade from the lemons off our tree - which we served in one of those giant glass spigot jars.

I'm also overdue on my last San Francisco post, and I'm going to the Gourmet Institute in October, so any of you New Yorkers out there, please feel free to give me some recommendations. So far, Doughnut Plant, Balthazar, the Spotted Pig and the Shake Shack are on the list, but who knows how much I'll have time for - much of the time will be scheduled, and I have some friends I want to visit. I'm very excited though, it should be a lot of fun.

If anyone else is going, please feel free to drop me a line - I will be all on my own in the Big City!

Tuesday, September 11, 2007

Lunch at Currant (and experimenting with the iPhone)

Currant
Lately I've been experimenting with taking photos in restaurants with the iPhone, since it's a little less obtrusive than a regular phone. I finally figured out how to upload the pictures (not a techie, not me - no siree) so I thought I'd post a few. Since I hadn't been able to download the photos, I haven't written about any of these meals yet.

The most recent and fresh in my mind seems like a good place to start, and that would be lunch yesterday at Currant, the brand-new restaurant in the Sofia hotel downtown on Broadway. It looks like San Diego has a new power lunch spot - the place was packed - a little surprising for a Monday. The interior is striking and fun - sort of fantasy Parisian Bistro style, with black and white banquettes, rosy red accents, mirrors and chandeliers. The elliptical bar is gorgeous and I bet they serve up some fun creative cocktails - I spied a little dish of currants sitting there ready to garnish a martini. Their blackboard advertises a happy hour with artisan cheeses and $5.00 cocktails from 4-6. Pity it ends so early, but would be worth checking out
Interior at Currant
They are currently serving a blended menu for both lunch and dinner - probably a smart move for a soft opening. The menu advertises a charcuterie and cheese platter for a whopping $18.00. We wanted to sample the wares but that seemed a bit much - so we asked if they would do a smaller version. They agreed - for $10.00.
Charcuterie at Currant
We received a very generous serving of the meats - bresaeola, chorizo, salami and prosciutto, along with three cheeses - one aged, one truffled and one soft, along with some housemade pickled green beans, carrots and cauliflower. The cheeses were fine, and the pickles had good flavor but were a bit too pungent. A couple of days of aging might mellow them out. I'm not sure whether they offer any pates or terrines, but we didn't receive any. The platter was accompanied by a plate of buttered croutons and Carr's crackers. I would have preferred a basket of plain bread, but they didn't offer bread at lunch. (Our server offered to put some in the oven for us - but it hadn't arrived by the end of the meal.)

For an entree, I was torn between the sweetbread club sandwich (yes, you read that right) with foie gras mousse, and something on the lighter side. I wanted to try it, but didn't think I could do it by myself, especially after the meats and cheeses. I chose the beet salad with melted leek tart and horseradish cream. Jodi ordered the panini sandwich special with salad and potato leek soup.

While I thought I had ordered something light - it turns out I was mistaken. The "salad" was gorgeous (I wish I had taken a photo) but much more rich than it sounded on the menu. It was actually more of a tart with a buttery crust filled with rich onion custard, topped with a small tangle of beets and baby greens. Horseradish cream was drizzled around the plate. Jodi's sandwich was good- she shared a bite - but needed more mustard to cut the richness of the ham, cheese and onion confit. She commented that she liked it, but not as much as the roasted vegetable paninis we've had at Opera Patisserie. The promised soup never arrived, but we were treated to dessert and coffee instead - Jodi's choice, since it was her soup that went missing.
Banana Dessert at Currant
The Brown Sugar Caramelized Banana Strudel she picked was a whole banana wrapped in a crepe pastry, baked and served with almond ice cream. It was good, and the coffee served alongside was strong and hot. Love the dishes - they had lots of nice little touches like that. Our neighbors ordered the Chocolate Oatmeal Stout ice cream float - which was quite spectacular-looking.

We had excellent service until toward the end of the meal, when were abandoned for a while. It was so busy though, that I think they were a little overwhelmed. The chef himself, Jonathan Pflueger, was bringing plates out of the kitchen, including our charcuterie platter. He has worked at the Montage, Star of the Sea and the Russian Tea Room, among others, so he definitely knows his way around a kitchen as well as a dining room.

It will undoubtedly take them some time to work out the kinks - but I think they'll really hit their stride in a month or two - when the dedicated lunch menu is worked out, and the service issues are smoothed over. It's definitely promising, and if the crowd this past Monday is any indication, it looks to be a big hit!

Currant American Brasserie
140 W. Broadway in the Sofia Hotel
(619) 702-6309
reservations available on opentable.com

Thursday, September 06, 2007

Pizzas, People and Places to See - San Francisco - August.07, Chapter 3


On Day Two of my most recent SF trip, I experienced something rare - for me at least - a day full of the pleasures of the City with no responsibilities. San Francisco is not an "easy" city - it's hard to navigate - incredibly difficult to park, and everywhere you go you feel like you're jostling for space with all of the other inhabitants. If you can get past the frustration though, there are some incredible rewards.

The first thing I did was sleep in until ten o'clock. That's right - ten o' clock on a weekday morning. I couldn't believe it - but I woke up fantastically refreshed. By the time I wiped the sleep out of my eyes, it was time to go meet Joy for lunch at Pizzeria Delfina. I have been reading Joy's smart and hilarious blog for a long time - suffice it to say she doesn't really talk like that, but she is a hoot. We had a lovely meal at the Pizzeria. I have to say I think I'm in love with that block in the Mission - Tartine, the Pizzeria, and Delfina restaurant all in a row - and then a stones throw down the block, Bi Rite Creamery (not to mention the Bi Rite Market.) It was so great to see people sitting outside on the sidewalk enjoying the sun on a Friday afternoon.
Pizzeria Delfina
Joy ordered for us at the restaurant, since she knows what's good. We shared an Insalata Tricolore salad with shaved Grana Padano and Lemon Vinaigrette - tart and very refreshing. We also had the house-cured Nostrano - and we fought the urge to order the Fresh Stretched Mozzarella, or the Blue Lake beans with Pancetta, Parmigiana and extra virgin olive oil. (We couldn't completely overdo it - we had ice cream in our future.) We also split the salsiccia pizza - with housemade fennel sausage, tomato, bell peppers, onions and mozzarella. Their pizzas are large and bubbly, with a slightly sweet tomato concasse-style sauce. Dare I say it (please don't hit me Joy!) it was delicious, but it wasn't as good as Oliveto the day before. I'm definitely planning to go back though, to try some more of their housemade menu items - they have a standard menu, but add some interesting sounding specials daily as well - such as the Roasted Corn with Lardo Butter, and "Cherry Pie" pizza, with marinated cherry tomatoes, ricotta salata and basil. It's also very affordable with starters under $10.00 and pizzas around $15.00. Not surprisingly, it gets crowded. There are few tables (all two tops) and even at 1:00 PM we had to wait a few minutes. Get there early or go at and odd time if you want to be assured of a table - otherwise you'll be waiting for a while.
Bi-Rite Creamery Flavors
After nearly polishing off our pizza, we headed down the block to Bi-Rite Creamery for ice cream. I swore I was going to go back to this place before I left town, but alas I only had one opportunity to stuff myself with their gorgeous flavors. I chose Salted Caramel, which was a no-brainer after my fantastic experience making this ice cream myself, and Mint Chocolate Chip - one of the best renditions of this flavor I think I've ever tasted. They also make great chocolate chip cookies, which they will cut up and put on top of the ice cream. They stuck slices of cookie in mine like a little cookie forest. Pure genius. When I go back, I have at least a half a dozen flavors I will have to fight with myself to choose from - Ritual Coffee Toffee, Balsamic Strawberry... the list goes on. They also have a freezer case with pints to go, and ready-made ice cream sandwiches. I also picked up a bag of their chocolate chip cookies to take home to Tommy (I'm nothing if not a good guest) and they were better (in my opinion anyway) than the ones I bought at Tartine on an earlier trip, and the ones I had purchased at La Farine the day before. Speaking of Tartine, we swung by there on our way out hoping for some croissants for breakfast the next morning - but they were sold out. C'est la vie.
View from the Tower
Joy and I parted ways after lunch. I had hoped to spend some time with my friend Tracy that afternoon, but she was stuck in her conference for the duration, so I decided to do a solo trip to the De Young Museum. There is truly nothing more beautiful than Golden Gate Park on a day when the weather cooperates. I drove past the amazing Conservatory of Flowers - which I will have to make sure to visit on a return trip. It looks like a Victorian Wedding Cake - really an amazing structure. The De Young is also spectacular in its own way. I thoroughly enjoyed strolling through the galleries and I was impressed with the collections and the way they are arranged. It's a beautiful place and a great way to spend an afternoon. Highly, highly recommend. At Amy's suggestion I also made sure to go up to the view tower, which was spectacular - given the aforementioned fantastic weather. I also stopped in their cafe for a cup of coffee. The coffee was nothing extra, but the outdoor patio is a really pleasant place to sit. I'm not sure why but I just love museum cafes and gift shops, and theirs are great examples. In the shop I bought a few pictures and gew gaws to take home - including a Wayne Thiebaud print that is now hanging in our living room (for $5.00!!)
The De Young Cafe Dining Room
Dinner that night was at Boulevard - one of my favorites. It was good, but I am not sure it was as good as it has been on my last couple of visits. Perhaps we ordered poorly. We had a scallop starter with sweet corn bisque, tuna tartare with avocado and wasabi roe for starters, and Tracy and I each ordered a roasted halibut dish with beer battered mussel fritters, aioli and tomato risotto, sauced with "mussel bisque buerre fondue." Tommy had the steak with crisp potatoes and mushrooms. Our server had to warn us that the scallop starter was actually more of a bisque with a scallop accompaniment, and he was right - there were two scallops in the center of the bowl of bisque, whereas by the description I would have expected seared scallops with a side of bisque - maybe a shooter. It was fine, but really pretty basic. The ahi tartare was also good but ordinary. I expect Boulevard to serve something a little more inventive than the daily norm, so it was a little bit of a let down. The halibut entree was very good, and the mussel fritters were the highlight of the meal.

The dessert selection did not seem to me to be quite up to their usual standard. We had an ice cream s'more pie type of thing that was fine but again not very interesting. I do think I've become more critical of pastry menus since taking my classes, not because I'm some sort of expert pastry chef myself, but because I know what goes into these things. I definitely think they can do better. The company was more than enjoyable though - getting together with Tommy and Tracy is always a treat, and I couldn't have been happier about that.

(Next up - Days 3 and 4, more pizza, Tomales Bay Foods, and Breakfast at Boulette's - again!)

Monday, September 03, 2007

Pizzas, People and Places to See - San Francisco - August.07, Chapter 2

(Continued from this earlier installment)

Bar Crudo is a tiny jewelbox of place, with of a raw bar on the ground floor with a narrow counter, and an attic-like upstairs dining room. It looks like one of those European buildings from the time when people paid taxes according to the width of their houses. The decor is modern and fanciful, with zinc topped tables, and an artistic installation of lights designed to look like jellyfish dangling at the end of the room above the staircase.
The Raw Bar at Bar Crudo
Crudo roughly translates to the Italian version of sushi, and at Bar Crudo, the thinly sliced raw fish are composed with inventive accompaniments to compliment the flavors. In addition to the raw bar items, there are a number of salads and hot dishes on the menu - including their made to order seafood chowder, and a whole grilled fish.
Arctic Char at Bar Crudo
We tried nearly every raw dish and shared everything. As you might expect, some of the combinations were more successful than others, and some of us liked them more than the others did. The Arctic Char with creme fraiche and dill was universally adored - it was melt in your mouth buttery and sweet. (It was recommended to me by at least two respectable foodies when I told them we were dining there.) The selections change frequently, but many of their flavor combinations are consistent - we liked the accompaniment of sprouts, daikon and citrus with the hamachi - but I was less impressed with the lobster oil and pineapple vinaigrette that came with the tombo. If I were to go back, I frankly might not order the raw fish at all - I was so thoroughly captivated by the heirloom tomato salad with lobster and burrata and the sublime house-made chowder that it would be difficult for me not to order both.
Bar Crudo - Lobster Salad with Burrata, Arugula and Heirlooms
The lobster salad, pictured above - was a inventive but thoroughly appropriate combination of large wedges of heirloom tomato, fresh arugula, basil - mild, creamy burrata and chilled poached lobster. The only off note in the whole thing was that the peas on the plate were completely raw. While I believe that most vegetables do taste better uncooked - peas are not in that category. They were hard and starchy, and would have been far better blanched.

The chowder is a bacon-accented bisque, loaded with fresh seafood. Each bowl is made to order, ensuring that nobody winds up with the overcooked rubbery stuff at the bottom of the bucket. It's extremely rich and a large serving - two could easily share it.
Who's that food blogger hiding behind her glass?
We had a great time at dinner - I really enjoyed introducing Sam to Tracy and Tommy and they loved her as well of course!

(Next up, day two - lunch at Pizzeria Delfina and Bi Rite Creamery with Joy, the De Young Museum and Boulevard!)